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Copper Moonshine Stills for Sale
Call US: 1-603-997-6786
The Distillery Network Inc. Moonshine Stills come in three categories. The first category is the complete unit which always comes with an upgraded thumper and worm. 2nd category is individual pieces. Finally there are the Moonshine Kits, which consists of all the parts you need to build your very own moonshine still step by step.
Each Copper Still for Sale on our website comes with Free Shipping and a Lifetime Warranty.
Our Copper Moonshine Stills are water tested before shipping and come with optional electrical elements for those interested in having their very own Electric Moonshine Still.
Every copper still for sale is made in the U.S.A.
All our moonshine stills are made in the U.S.A by American Workers. We believe it's our duty to support local businesses and our communities, and we do this by hiring and training American workers to build our top of the line, moonshine stills.
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If you are looking for a size that is not on our site, please contact us at 603-997-6786 or email us.If you are looking to add something to your order the order must be placed through our custom section. It is best to call us if you want a custom designed copper moonshine still.A Custom Order consists of anything that is changed from our flagship designs. You can request a temperature guage to be moved, you can request a larger thumper. The possibilities are endless with custom still orders and for this reason, you must call or email us.Send inquiries to us attdnorders@gmail.com
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The Distillery Network's Distillery Equipment for Sale
We have a ton of Distillery Equipment for Sale. These are all the products that we offer that can help you out in making the best moonshine ever!!! From Copper Moonshine Stills to Fermenters we get you started making whiskey, liquor, essential oils and much more, just like a pro, as soon as possible.
Recipes to go along with our Distillery Equipment for Sale
If you're a beginner and trying to learn how to make moonshine or just looking for a moonshine recipe to play around with, you can read here
Custom Distillery Equipment for Sale
If you're a professional or want to get your hands dirty by building a Copper Moonshine Still step by step we recommend the following:
The Distillery Network Custom Order Page
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Check out our Copper Still Plans and Moonshine Still Plans. Your very own Moonshine Kit right at your fingertips
Build your own moonshine still step by step with your very own Moonshine Kit. Our DIY Kits provide you with all the material you need and moonshine still plans to get started making your very own moonshine still today.
We offer you moonshine still EZ kits with moonshine still parts that help you get started on your project.
Copper still kits and Moonshine Still ez kits for making Homemade Moonshine
We offer multiple sources for helping you put your moonshine still together. We offer the bookitlet as well as a 30 minute video . You can also call us at 1-502-337-3944 or text us if you need help building our product.
About our Moonshine Kits
Our Moonshine Kits are made of the same pieces and parts that our professional copper craftsmen use in New Hampshire to make our top of the line copper moonshine stills.
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All the tools you need for making an electric moonshine still
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This collection consists of electric moonshine stills and electric elements.
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Capacity ranges from 110v to 220v
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We recommend the Hotplate only for the 2 Gallon Moonshine Still and smaller
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110v is recommended for 2 - 6 gallon
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220v is recommended for 10 gallon +
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We can preinstall the electric element (Contact Us for more information)
Benefits of using an Electric Moonshine Still
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Better control of heating
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Safer than using open flames
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YOU SOLDER BOOKITLET: A STEP BY STEP GUIDE ON HOW TO MAKE MOONSHINE STILL OUT OF OF OUR MOONSHINE KITS FOR SALE
INTRODUCTION
Are you up for a challenge?The EZ KIT you just purchased comes with a challenge; this is not a kit for amateurs, but for the “DIY” kind of guy or girl.Assembling the EZ KIT is not easy; you have to attach, clamp and solder each piece yourself. We have already cut, bent, rolled and embossed the copper for you to get you started.Now it’s up to you to rise up to the challenge.How rewarding would it be to be able to BRAG to all your friends and family that you actually built a Copper Moonshine Still yourself! Or better yet, build it with the help of a friend or family member as a quality time project.We included this BooKitLet (yeah, that’s what we called this awesome thing) with very detailed instructions on how to get your Still ready to rock. How- ever you decide to tackle this, we promise you that you will not be alone along the way, we are just a phone call away if you have questions!1-(603) 997-6786We also have an instruction video on for you to follow along as well. So, turn to the page with a list of Tools Needed and get ready to build your own Copper Moonshine Still!GOOD LUCK MOONSHINE KIT ROCKSTAR.
KITS INSTRUCTIONS
PARTS INCLUDED:
TOOLS NEEDED
* Gloves and eye goggles
* Metal Snips for Custom Cuts
* Small Ball Hammer
* Metal File for Sharp Edges
* Propane Torch Head
* Propane tank (small, disposable)
* Fire Extinguisher and other safety supplies
* Long Flat Head Screwdriver
* Step Drill Bit
* Deburring Tool (if needed)
* Anything made of metal to hold up the bottom of the pot from the inside Or a 5 Gallon bucket lined with tin foil
(to hold circle bottom piece into place when fitting it)
* Clamps to hold the seams together when soldering (Have different length sizes on hand)
* Tin Foil
POT BODY ASSEMBLY
The Pot has two sides of the seam: a sharp side and a tucked seam side.
The Sharp side goes on the inside of the pot, it tucks under the folded over side.
Apply flux to the sharp seam on the outside and to the folded over side to the inside (the flux sides will touch when you fold them over). Clamp the seams together on the folded over seam.
Our mission here is to clamp the pot to the correct size of the bottom circle.
Clamp the pot so the circle fits snug, you want it on the tighter side rather than loose. This is important, please remember copper is soft and you will want it tight, so the solder makes a connection.
Start soldering inside the pot seams. Use the heat and follow with the solder, you’ll heat up the copper to melt the solder.
Go slow, making sure the solder drips into the gaps of the seam. Your first run of soldering is to fill the gaps, you will do a second run along the seam to make it look good.
Insert the pot circle and use something to push the circle up from the inside, as to keep it in place while you solder the circle. Same as with the pot seams solder slowly; making sure there are no gaps, circle has to be snug.
Let it Cool and take the clamps off.
Thumper comes with two copper circles. One of these circles has two drilled holes; this one is the top circle. Same as the pot, insert bottom circle and solder.
Turn over and insert the top, use a tool to pull up the edges to solder nice and flat.
CAP KIT ASSEMBLY
Clamp and solder the open cylinder (cap bottom) just as you did with the pot body. The bottom piece of the Cap has two lines, a beveled line and an embossed line. Embossed line is under beveled line.
Flux the seams of Cap Top and Bottom; Insert the Cap top on Bottom with beveled line on top, match the seams as these interlock. Get the tightest fit you can, flux seams again and start soldering as you did with the pot.Make Two runs of solder inside the cap pieces (you can always do a small solder line on the outside for added security).Included is a flat square of copper, this is your Cap Tip Top; you can cut this into a circle to fit the cap top.Using the top piece of the cap as a guide, draw a circle with marker on the inside to make a stencil of the right size.
Cut the circle shape, leaving about a 1/8” extra when you cut, this will help make sure the circle you cut is not too small for the cap. Fit the circle into the top of Cap Kit, use something inside to drive the circle up and keep it in place while you solder (any metal cylinder would work).
Flux the seams along circle and solder.
CONE ASSEMBLY
As we saw with the pot body, the Cone also has two sides: a sharp side and a folded over side. The folded over side is always on the outside, covering the sharp edge side.
Flux the sharp side of the seam on the side facing towards you, flux the seam of the folded over side as well, just as we did with the pot.
Match the bottom of cone seams first and when you fold the seams over each other, leave about 2” overhang on the bottom and about ¼” on top to be able to fit the clamps (Don’t clamp the seam, you will be soldering the seam).
Clamp the top and bottom and use a longer handle clamp to clamp the middle of the cone, we do not want any gaps. Close the gap well so the copper sides are touching each other.
Flux and solder from the inside, make sure to fill the gaps well with the solder. Solder in two runs: the first run is to fill the gaps well; the second run is to make it look nice and even.
Wait for the solder to cool, remove clamps.
For this step, you will need an object such as a metal stand, metal object or a 5 gallon bucket lined with tin foil (to prevent melting), this will help you hold the cone into place while you insert the pot body and solder.
Flip cone upside down on the bucket (holder) and fit the pot into the cone and
match up the seams.
Apply pressure to the top of the pot before soldering, to make gaps tighter. (you may want to have another person pushing down to make sure gaps are tight, or you can use a weight as well).
Flux along the seam of Cone and Pot and solder, go slow, in 3” stretches.
ASSEMBLY CAP TO CONE
Just as we did with the Pot to Cone assembly, attach Cap to small end of cone making sure the seams match (these should interlock).
Have someone help you keeping into place, or have something holding the Cap in place (make sure whatever you use keeps the two pieces steady!)
Flux and solder leaving no gaps. Use low heat, do not overheat and do not force the solder into the seams. Make it so the solder flows naturally and the flame and the flux do all the work.
WORM ASSEMBLY
Same process as with the Pot’s Body.
Fit bottom circle onto the worm’s body, flux and solder.
The top circle of worm will have two holes, use a tool to get the top circle up so you can solder in place.
PLUGS AND BUSHINGS
You’ll need to drill the holes (unless they are already drilled).
It is best to use a step drill bit; make sure you do not over drill the hole, you want the piece to fit snug. Try to use the threads of the piece you are installing to make it fit tight.
When you heat up these pieces, it is different that heating the copper up and soldering! You need to heat up the piece slightly longer before applying the solder. If you apply the solder before the brass piece is hot enough to take the solder, you will end up with solder drips on the copper.
All these pieces will be in the box. The plug and bushing go on the thumper or anywhere you would like to install.
THUMPER PIPE INSTRUCTIONS
The seam is on the back side, the drain plug is on the front. Once you de- termine which side is the front and back, you then need to make sure the correct tubing gets installed. The long tubing goes almost all the way down on the left side. The tubing that does not go down much at all goes on the right side.
PLUMBING THE UNIT
Once all of your pieces are ready to get installed, you need to line everything up on the table and get it nice and straight before you solder everything up. We call this “Plumbing the Unit”.
Making sure everything lines up before soldering the pipes is important to ensure that your unit looks proper.
Make sure you apply enough flux to all joints before soldering. Hold the flame on the fitting and heat it up until solder takes. Do not wait too long or the solder won’t take. If this happens, use sand paper or wire brush to clean up and reflux, let it cool down before you try to solder again.
WORM CALIBRATION
The coil for the worm needs to be installed in a manner where the coil spirals downwards.
The coil cannot be spiraling from low to high or down too flat.
Make sure when installing the coil, the flow of the spiral goes downwards to ensure the correct flow needed.
TIPS AND TRICKS
CLAMPING
* Clamping the copper is important when building a copper moonshine still; the tighter you clamp the copper, the less solder you will have to use and a much stronger bond will be created.
* When clamping, make sure you use the clamps with flat ends which pivot this way you won’t be left with marks on your moonshine still.
* Flux pieces before clamping and before soldering. The flux cleans and prepares the area for maximum adhering capabilities.
SOLDERING
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* Flux the pieces generously to ensure proper solder bondings; the solder should “Mend” into the copper.
* Use flux to cool certain spots down if needed.
* Go slow when soldering, do not overheat the flux or copper and let the solder mend naturally with the copper sheet.
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Make sure you fill all seams with solder. We like to go until it drips out the other end and use gravity to your advantage!
* Always start from the bottom (side close to you) and run the solder up the seams. Put the flame first and follow with the solder, let the copper melt the solder instead of the flame.
* Solder in Two Runs. First run is meant for the solder go into the seams. Second run is to make it look nice and finished. Flux in between runs, but let it cool off first!
*Before you do a “Second Run”, hold the flame on left hand side of seam and
you’ll see the solder bubble. If there is space for the solder to move, it will move.
*Wrap your clamps with tin foil to avoid solder drippings on your clamps.
CHECK OUT OUR MOONSHINE KITS FOR SALE
CONTACT US!
CALL US WITH QUESTIONS AT: 1(603) 997-6786
VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS: WWW.MOONSHINEKITS.COM
FOLLOW US: WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/THEDISTILLERYNETWORK
TWITTER: @AMERICANCOPPERWORKS
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Our Flagship Alcohol Still Collection
This collection of complete moonshine stills are the premium and most recommended alcohol stills from our past customers.
Complete Set, Pre-Assembled Alcohol Stills
All out flagship Moonshine Stills are complete units which come with mostly pre-assembled part. If you're looking to save money or are a pro looking for a challenge, you can check out our moonshine kit collection. Please not this is for advanced moonshiners and coppersmiths.
These are our most popular alcohol stills bought by our customers. Each Alcohol still is made with top quality copper and is produced by American workers.
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The Flame Flow Moonshine still has been awarded a patent.
The Patent Number Is 10,561,960.
This Unit will heat up in half the time, This unit will be less likely to scorch and burn your mash for an even FINER taste than our customers already reiceve with our standard units.
You can also control the heat of the still easier and more accurately.
We are convinced the "Flame Flow™ " is the wave of the future in distillation. Dont take our word for it, you be the judge!
The Flame Flow Moonshine still has been awarded a patent.
The Patent Number Is 10,561,960.
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Extra Moonshine Still Parts
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This page consists of an ever growing list of accessories that we offer for sale.
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They often come shipped separately when ordered with moonshine still or moonshine kit.
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Pots, thumpers, worms, caps, temp gages.
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Custom requests are accepted. Please emial TDNorders@gmail.com
Questions about unlisted home distilling equipment and moonshine still parts?
If you cannot find the extra parts or accessories that you are looking for, or if you're just interested in some accessories, don't hesitate to give us a call at 1-502-337-3944.
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1. Open your box.
2. Place pot on a table with temperature gage towards left hand side.
3. Take the smallest piece of the thumper with drain plug facing towards you and put to the right of the pot.
4. Take the worm which is attached to coil and put to the right of the thumper.
5. Take the cap and insert it to the top of the pot, the bottom of the cap connects by spinning the spin ttings to the left side of the thumper.
A) The seam on the top of cap should interlock with seam of the back of the pot.
6. When connecting the spin fitting, if they should leak, use thread locking tape or wheat paste. The unit also comes with an adapter piece which is copper, and it connects to the top of right hand side of the thumper and goes to the worm spin fittings accordingly.
7. Congratulations! You have successfully assembled your Moonshine Still but you still need to know how to use it.
8. You need a burner or any source of flame, you could also have a submerged heating element. Once you have a burner and propane you need some MASH. Mash is what you put in the still to get liquor.
9. MASH= Fermented materials that can range anywhere between 1% to 35% ABV (Alcohol By Volume). The higher the ABV, the more alcohol you will be able to pull out. The goal is to take out as much alcohol out of the mash with your Moonshine Still.
VISIT: WWW.MASH.RECIPES FOR SOME EASY RECIPES TO GET STARTED.
You are going to need a Hydrometer, which measures the alcohol content of the Mash, ‘cause it’s always nice to know what your alcohol is in the beginning and the end of the process. There are two different types of Hydrometers, one to use for low proof (of Mash) and one for high proof. Visit our accessory page to purchase more items from us.
10. Strain Mash for any hard materials and pour into pot. You are going to need to seal the cap of the pot with “old school” Wheat Paste or Black Electrical Tape, make sure to seal the unit well. The thumper is a double purification unit, it is not a necessity. We want you to run the Thumper dry (meaning, do not add anything in it) until you know what you are doing. All our units are interchangeable, which means you can take the Thumper out and run it directly from the pot to the worm with the coil.
11. Your Worm, the one with the coil, needs constant ow of cool water (we recommend continuously filling it with ice) you can also get an upgraded Thumper and Worm Kit with any of our units which will give you 2 hoses to run water in and out.
12. Put a flame underneath the Pot until the unit starts to “work”; as soon as the Worm is dripping product, write the temperature down then add 20 degrees to it, “That is your Operating Range”. Always keep still within this range to make sure H2O does not go into your product.
13. Your Thumper will ll up with Liquid and eventually stop the distillation process. You will need to disregard the Thumper’s content or save and re-run in your next batch.
14. Do Not just go and start drinking what comes out of the unit. Please do the appropriate amount of research to make sure you disregard the appropriate amount of your distillate before drinking.
NOW YOU KNOW HOW TO PROPERLY USE YOUR NEW MOONSHINE STILL. VISIT OUR FACEBOOK PAGE.
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YOU SOLDER BOOKITLET: A STEP BY STEP GUIDE ON HOW TO MAKE MOONSHINE STILL OUT OF OF OUR MOONSHINE KITS FOR SALE
INTRODUCTION
Are you up for a challenge?The EZ KIT you just purchased comes with a challenge; this is not a kit for amateurs, but for the “DIY” kind of guy or girl.Assembling the EZ KIT is not easy; you have to attach, clamp and solder each piece yourself. We have already cut, bent, rolled and embossed the copper for you to get you started.Now it’s up to you to rise up to the challenge.How rewarding would it be to be able to BRAG to all your friends and family that you actually built a Copper Moonshine Still yourself! Or better yet, build it with the help of a friend or family member as a quality time project.We included this BooKitLet (yeah, that’s what we called this awesome thing) with very detailed instructions on how to get your Still ready to rock. How- ever you decide to tackle this, we promise you that you will not be alone along the way, we are just a phone call away if you have questions!1-(603) 997-6786
We also have an instruction video on for you to follow along as well. So, turn to the page with a list of Tools Needed and get ready to build your own Copper Moonshine Still!GOOD LUCK MOONSHINE KIT ROCKSTAR.
KITS INSTRUCTIONS
PARTS INCLUDED:
TOOLS NEEDED
* Gloves and eye goggles
* Metal Snips for Custom Cuts
* Small Ball Hammer
* Metal File for Sharp Edges
* Propane Torch Head
* Propane tank (small, disposable)
* Fire Extinguisher and other safety supplies
* Long Flat Head Screwdriver
* Step Drill Bit
* Deburring Tool (if needed)
* Anything made of metal to hold up the bottom of the pot from the inside Or a 5 Gallon bucket lined with tin foil
(to hold circle bottom piece into place when fitting it)
* Clamps to hold the seams together when soldering (Have different length sizes on hand)
* Tin Foil
POT BODY ASSEMBLY
The Pot has two sides of the seam: a sharp side and a tucked seam side.
The Sharp side goes on the inside of the pot, it tucks under the folded over side.
Apply flux to the sharp seam on the outside and to the folded over side to the inside (the flux sides will touch when you fold them over). Clamp the seams together on the folded over seam.
Our mission here is to clamp the pot to the correct size of the bottom circle.
Clamp the pot so the circle fits snug, you want it on the tighter side rather than loose. This is important, please remember copper is soft and you will want it tight, so the solder makes a connection.
Start soldering inside the pot seams. Use the heat and follow with the solder, you’ll heat up the copper to melt the solder.
Go slow, making sure the solder drips into the gaps of the seam. Your first run of soldering is to fill the gaps, you will do a second run along the seam to make it look good.
Insert the pot circle and use something to push the circle up from the inside, as to keep it in place while you solder the circle. Same as with the pot seams solder slowly; making sure there are no gaps, circle has to be snug.
Let it Cool and take the clamps off.
Thumper comes with two copper circles. One of these circles has two drilled holes; this one is the top circle. Same as the pot, insert bottom circle and solder.
Turn over and insert the top, use a tool to pull up the edges to solder nice and flat.
CAP KIT ASSEMBLY
Clamp and solder the open cylinder (cap bottom) just as you did with the pot body. The bottom piece of the Cap has two lines, a beveled line and an embossed line. Embossed line is under beveled line.
Flux the seams of Cap Top and Bottom; Insert the Cap top on Bottom with beveled line on top, match the seams as these interlock. Get the tightest fit you can, flux seams again and start soldering as you did with the pot.Make Two runs of solder inside the cap pieces (you can always do a small solder line on the outside for added security).Included is a flat square of copper, this is your Cap Tip Top; you can cut this into a circle to fit the cap top.Using the top piece of the cap as a guide, draw a circle with marker on the inside to make a stencil of the right size.
Cut the circle shape, leaving about a 1/8” extra when you cut, this will help make sure the circle you cut is not too small for the cap. Fit the circle into the top of Cap Kit, use something inside to drive the circle up and keep it in place while you solder (any metal cylinder would work).
Flux the seams along circle and solder.
CONE ASSEMBLY
As we saw with the pot body, the Cone also has two sides: a sharp side and a folded over side. The folded over side is always on the outside, covering the sharp edge side.
Flux the sharp side of the seam on the side facing towards you, flux the seam of the folded over side as well, just as we did with the pot.
Match the bottom of cone seams first and when you fold the seams over each other, leave about 2” overhang on the bottom and about ¼” on top to be able to fit the clamps (Don’t clamp the seam, you will be soldering the seam).
Clamp the top and bottom and use a longer handle clamp to clamp the middle of the cone, we do not want any gaps. Close the gap well so the copper sides are touching each other.
Flux and solder from the inside, make sure to fill the gaps well with the solder. Solder in two runs: the first run is to fill the gaps well; the second run is to make it look nice and even.
Wait for the solder to cool, remove clamps.
For this step, you will need an object such as a metal stand, metal object or a 5 gallon bucket lined with tin foil (to prevent melting), this will help you hold the cone into place while you insert the pot body and solder.
Flip cone upside down on the bucket (holder) and fit the pot into the cone and
match up the seams.
Apply pressure to the top of the pot before soldering, to make gaps tighter. (you may want to have another person pushing down to make sure gaps are tight, or you can use a weight as well).
Flux along the seam of Cone and Pot and solder, go slow, in 3” stretches.
ASSEMBLY CAP TO CONE
Just as we did with the Pot to Cone assembly, attach Cap to small end of cone making sure the seams match (these should interlock).
Have someone help you keeping into place, or have something holding the Cap in place (make sure whatever you use keeps the two pieces steady!)
Flux and solder leaving no gaps. Use low heat, do not overheat and do not force the solder into the seams. Make it so the solder flows naturally and the flame and the flux do all the work.
WORM ASSEMBLY
Same process as with the Pot’s Body.
Fit bottom circle onto the worm’s body, flux and solder.
The top circle of worm will have two holes, use a tool to get the top circle up so you can solder in place.
PLUGS AND BUSHINGS
You’ll need to drill the holes (unless they are already drilled).
It is best to use a step drill bit; make sure you do not over drill the hole, you want the piece to fit snug. Try to use the threads of the piece you are installing to make it fit tight.
When you heat up these pieces, it is different that heating the copper up and soldering! You need to heat up the piece slightly longer before applying the solder. If you apply the solder before the brass piece is hot enough to take the solder, you will end up with solder drips on the copper.
All these pieces will be in the box. The plug and bushing go on the thumper or anywhere you would like to install.
THUMPER PIPE INSTRUCTIONS
The seam is on the back side, the drain plug is on the front. Once you de- termine which side is the front and back, you then need to make sure the correct tubing gets installed. The long tubing goes almost all the way down on the left side. The tubing that does not go down much at all goes on the right side.
PLUMBING THE UNIT
Once all of your pieces are ready to get installed, you need to line everything up on the table and get it nice and straight before you solder everything up. We call this “Plumbing the Unit”.
Making sure everything lines up before soldering the pipes is important to ensure that your unit looks proper.
Make sure you apply enough flux to all joints before soldering. Hold the flame on the fitting and heat it up until solder takes. Do not wait too long or the solder won’t take. If this happens, use sand paper or wire brush to clean up and reflux, let it cool down before you try to solder again.
WORM CALIBRATION
The coil for the worm needs to be installed in a manner where the coil spirals downwards.
The coil cannot be spiraling from low to high or down too flat.
Make sure when installing the coil, the flow of the spiral goes downwards to ensure the correct flow needed.
TIPS AND TRICKS
CLAMPING
* Clamping the copper is important when building a copper moonshine still; the tighter you clamp the copper, the less solder you will have to use and a much stronger bond will be created.
* When clamping, make sure you use the clamps with flat ends which pivot this way you won’t be left with marks on your moonshine still.
* Flux pieces before clamping and before soldering. The flux cleans and prepares the area for maximum adhering capabilities.
SOLDERING
-
* Flux the pieces generously to ensure proper solder bondings; the solder should “Mend” into the copper.
* Use flux to cool certain spots down if needed.
* Go slow when soldering, do not overheat the flux or copper and let the solder mend naturally with the copper sheet.
-
Make sure you fill all seams with solder. We like to go until it drips out the other end and use gravity to your advantage!
* Always start from the bottom (side close to you) and run the solder up the seams. Put the flame first and follow with the solder, let the copper melt the solder instead of the flame.
* Solder in Two Runs. First run is meant for the solder go into the seams. Second run is to make it look nice and finished. Flux in between runs, but let it cool off first!
*Before you do a “Second Run”, hold the flame on left hand side of seam and
you’ll see the solder bubble. If there is space for the solder to move, it will move.
*Wrap your clamps with tin foil to avoid solder drippings on your clamps.
CHECK OUT OUR MOONSHINE KITS FOR SALE
CONTACT US!
CALL US WITH QUESTIONS AT: 1(603) 997-6786
VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS: WWW.MOONSHINEKITS.COM
FOLLOW US: WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/THEDISTILLERYNETWORK
TWITTER: @AMERICANCOPPERWORKS
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1. Open your box.2. Place pot on a table with temperature gage towards left hand side.3. Take the smallest piece of the thumper with drain plug facing towards you and put to the right of the pot.4. Take the worm which is attached to coil and put to the right of the thumper.5. Take the cap and insert it to the top of the pot, the bottom of the cap connects by spinning the spin ttings to the left side of the thumper.A) The seam on the top of cap should interlock with seam of the back of the pot.6. When connecting the spin fitting, if they should leak, use thread locking tape or wheat paste. The unit also comes with an adapter piece which is copper, and it connects to the top of right hand side of the thumper and goes to the worm spin fittings accordingly.7. Congratulations! You have successfully assembled your Moonshine Still but you still need to know how to use it.8. You need a burner or any source of flame, you could also have a submerged heating element. Once you have a burner and propane you need some MASH. Mash is what you put in the still to get liquor.9. MASH= Fermented materials that can range anywhere between 1% to 35% ABV (Alcohol By Volume). The higher the ABV, the more alcohol you will be able to pull out. The goal is to take out as much alcohol out of the mash with your Moonshine Still.VISIT: WWW.MASH.RECIPES FOR SOME EASY RECIPES TO GET STARTED.You are going to need a Hydrometer, which measures the alcohol content of the Mash, ‘cause it’s always nice to know what your alcohol is in the beginning and the end of the process. There are two different types of Hydrometers, one to use for low proof (of Mash) and one for high proof. Visit our accessory page to purchase more items from us.10. Strain Mash for any hard materials and pour into pot. You are going to need to seal the cap of the pot with “old school” Wheat Paste or Black Electrical Tape, make sure to seal the unit well. The thumper is a double purification unit, it is not a necessity. We want you to run the Thumper dry (meaning, do not add anything in it) until you know what you are doing. All our units are interchangeable, which means you can take the Thumper out and run it directly from the pot to the worm with the coil.11. Your Worm, the one with the coil, needs constant ow of cool water (we recommend continuously filling it with ice) you can also get an upgraded Thumper and Worm Kit with any of our units which will give you 2 hoses to run water in and out.12. Put a flame underneath the Pot until the unit starts to “work”; as soon as the Worm is dripping product, write the temperature down then add 20 degrees to it, “That is your Operating Range”. Always keep still within this range to make sure H2O does not go into your product.13. Your Thumper will ll up with Liquid and eventually stop the distillation process. You will need to disregard the Thumper’s content or save and re-run in your next batch.14. Do Not just go and start drinking what comes out of the unit. Please do the appropriate amount of research to make sure you disregard the appropriate amount of your distillate before drinking.NOW YOU KNOW HOW TO PROPERLY USE YOUR NEW MOONSHINE STILL.
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Rules and Regulations
1. By placing an order on our website, the customer agrees to our Terms and Conditions, Rules and Regulations.
2. By placing an order on our website, the customer agrees and understands that there may be delays or other unknown or unexpected issues with their order which may delay the shipment of their order.
3. By placing an order on our website, the customer agrees and understands that The Distillery Network Inc. does not accept cancellations or issue refunds.
4. By placing an order on our website, the customer agrees and understands that they assume all liability. The legality of use varies in each state. The Distillery Network Inc. and its subsidiaries cannot be held responsible for anything that happens.
5. By placing an order on our website, the customer agrees and understands that they waive all product liability claims and injuctions. If the customer incurs loss or damage of property due to using our product, the customer will be held responsible and liable for any fees or penalties or claims.
6. Returns will not be accepted but the product can be swapped out for a comparable model. In the event that our company decides to refund the customer we reserve the right to charge a restocking fee of 30% of the purchase price which can be used for future purchases.
7. Any chargeback with the card companies will be refuted based off of our no returns / all sales are final policy.
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Return Policy
*All Sales Are Final*
If there are manufacturing defects found in product within 30 days of purchase, we will fix all issues and assume the shipping costs.
After 30 Days of purchase, we will still honor the Lifetime Warranty, but customer must assume shipping costs.
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Reasons to buy:
It's a Cheap Moonshine Still
Buy cheap or affordable still. We don't make worthless or poorly made one. American Copper Works is a company that values quality above everything else. Rather, we mean buying an affordable moonshine still to get you started.
A Cheap Moonshine Still is great for beginners
With spending a lot less money on our affordable moonshine stills, you can eventually get a much bigger still to fulfil your much more ambitious needs for making homemade moonshine and much more.
These small moonshine stills come with all the advantages that our larger whisky stills come with. So if you're getting started or not looking for too much output, don't hesitate to get one of yours today.
If you have any questions about our Small Moonshine Stills, don't hesitate to contact us at 603-997-6786.
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